East Of West – AW 15/16
Colour Story: Contrasts of White and Black, Grey and Silver, Yellow and Gold;
Inspired by parallels between the designer’s youth and the American film Calamity Jane. 1950’s western, that chronicles a young Doris Day who embraces the duality of a masculinity and femininity, first as a ‘tomboy’ and then as a woman in pursuit of love.
The collection has strong western themes, evoking fringed hems, lapels and boxy cuts. The collection also embraces the ‘feminine’ art of crochet, the final frontier of truly bespoke clothing with hand crocheted lattice dresses, flared pants and jackets, with traditional doily patterns exaggerated for effect with the use of acrylic, rayon and cotton yarns. Its colours and fabrics emphasize this study of contrasts, using twine traditionally prevalent in masculine environments to craft the feminine crocheted pieces. Fringed tops, dresses, jackets and pants in feather light silk and cotton create androgynous silhouettes that both celebrate and satirize the manly stereotypes Westerns have become associated with.
Ultra femininity and hyper masculinity contrast and complement each other and ultimately, birth a truly liberated woman, East of West.
Photography: Brian Molepo / Model: Nadine O (ICE MODELS SA) /
Art Direction: Bubu Ogisi / Styling: Ayanda Nhlapo